Had a chance to install my Motolectric cable upgrade kit today.

Very simple, Motolectric has basic pics of the install on their website as well as instructions. Best to peruse them 1st and become familiar with what's going on before installing-otherwise pretty straight forward.

On the 999 you have to pull the battery box away from the frame and remove the heat guard.

You'll replace the cable that runs from the starter to the starter contactor, the other cable will "piggy-back" from the starter contactor to the positive terminal on the battery.

This way there's no crimping or splicing......you'll keep the OEM cable as it is connected stock and just connect the new one on the starter contactor post with the old (new cable 1st, old on top) and route the new one along side and hook both to the positive terminal. It's a pretty slick idea instead of cutting, splicing and crimping...as the electricity will follow the path of least resistance-the new cable.....which by the way are HUGE!

The only issue was once the bigger cables were connected to the starter contactor it took some fiddling in order to rotate it around so it would fit back into the battery boxes rubber keeper......but no big deal.


How does it work? JUST FABULOUS!!! The new kit allows the starter to turn the engine over rapidly...thump, thump and bang......ignition! no more thump.........thump......thump.......try again...!

This kit really does work as promoted and has to have a positive effect on the electrical system, starter, sprag etc.


All in all a great purchase on a top quality kit! 

I threw up a few pics, one is the starter contactor that hides behind the heat shield, the other is the the difference in size....of the old vs. new cable, new starter cable hooked up to the contactor....the one I have know idea....it was supposed to be a pic of how to run the new cable along the existing one...see if I can find and post the right picture...sorry about that!

If your installing on a 999....remove all the fairings 1st, then the battery...then:

Remove the 2 lower screws that hold the heat shield on (get them started, then grab em' w/ a vise grip and back them out-saves the screw head from being stripped)

Disconnect the coil wire or remove coil depending on year.

Disconnect kickstand switch

Remove the 3 allen head screws that hold the battery box

Disconnect the left fan wire

Disconnect water temp. wire(has that bastard paper clip type retainer)

Disconnect starter cable at the starter

At this point pull the box out gently..I might have over-looked a connection, so see whats holding it up and pull it out as far as possible.

Then remove the top 2 heat shield screws.

Remove heat shield.

At the bottom of the battery box/front you'll see the starter and positive cables run into the starter contactor.

Pull contactor loose from rubber hold down

Twist it around and remove the starter cable.(REMEMBER how the existing starter cable fits along the bottom of the battery box, you'll run the new cable the same way)..you'll need to fiddle w/ the existing wiring, I just removed the rubber straps holding the positive cable and anything else which made it easier to remove and turn the contactor around so the nuts/washers on both cables can be removed.

Clean all contacts,w/ the scotchbrite pad that comes w/ the kit, next apply dielectric grease, and install the starter cable.

Next install the positive cable on the positive post of the contactor 1st, then lay the existing OEM cable on top, install the washer, nut and tighten.

Next just run the new positive cable along the existing OEM cable up and over the battery box to get an idea of where you want to zip tie it.

Then push it out of the way so it isn't in contact w/anything when you install the battery, this goes for all battery connections!-something I didn't do w/ mine....a little spark to tighten the sphincter!

Now just re-install the starter contactor....you'll need to route the starter cable out the bottom of the contactor and bend it along the bottom of the battery box and run it out the rear of the box.....exactly like the old cable was run.....

Next, get everything back in neat order within the battery box and install the heat shield and the top 2 screws(Use a vise grip to start the screw and get it snug, the heat shield is slotted so the screws can be lined up w/ the attachment points on the battery box. When you have all 4 screw holes lined up, tighten the top 2.

Install battery box, make sure you get the coil wire out so it can be re-connected, as well as the fan and water temp connector. If you have a PCIII,( like me) make sure that the ground wire eyelet is attached to the frame by the battery box allen head screws....otherwise your 999 won't start. You can try to make the connections while the battery box is still loose, to have some wiggle room. If not, attach the battery box and make the connections. (Fan, water temp, coil).

Once the battery box is attached to the frame and tightened down, install the battery.

Install the 2 remaining heat shield screws at the bottom.

Now connect the negative existing OEM cable (this was not replaced)to the battery.

Now run the positive cable over the B.box to the positive battery terminal.

You'll have both the new cable and existing OEM one at this terminal. Clean all connections w/ the scothbrite pad, apply dielectric grease.

Place the existing "bent" OEM cable on 1st, then put the new cable on top of it. Connect both to the battery. Zip tie new cable down where needed.

*Install battery tender pig tails if you have them.

Install kickstand switch wire.

Now listen to how fast the starter turns over and immediately starts your 999! If I owned a new Ducati, this would be my first modification w/o a doubt!!!

If anyone wants to reduce this tutorial, or add pics, be my guest..obviously brevity was not the key here. Sorry if I missed something, creative criticism welcomed.